FSS Water Kefir PHA

INCI: Aqua & Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract & Lactobacillus Ferment

Use Levels: 1.0% - 10.0%

Solubility: Water Soluble 

Appearance: Clear to Slightly Hazy, Yellow to Orange Liquid

pH (direct): 4.0 - 6.0
Gluconic Acid (HPLC): 18.0% - 24.0%

BACKGROUND

Akin to AHAs and BHAs, there is a new family member in town: a gentler version of the well-known alpha and beta hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids or PHAs. Skin care regimens are not complete without effective exfoliation to remove dead skin cells and buildup on the skin’s surface. However, many individuals experience irritation and dry skin when incorporating traditional chemical exfoliants, such as synthetic AHAs or BHAs, into their daily routines. PHAs can provide a gentle alternative for individuals with more sensitive skin types. PHAs like lactobionic acid are typically derived from lactose/milk and are not considered vegan. FSS Water Kefir PHA delivers a vegan source of gluconic acid from water kefir to enhance natural skin beauty by promoting collagen synthesis and cellular renewal.

Water kefir, also referred to as tibicos, is a beverage created by the fermentation of water kefir grains harvested from prickly pear cactus with bacteria and yeast. This symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast, or SCOBY, transform the water kefir grains into a tangy beverage rich in antioxidants. The fermentation process enhances the water kefir’s natural properties bolstering nutrition, as well as enhancing cosmetic attributes such as promoting collagen synthesis and cellular renewal. Natural, vegan materials are of increasing importance to the modern consumer, as eco-ethical and veganism are becoming mainstream lifestyle choices. Fermentation technology utilizing symbiotic bacteria and yeast provide a vegan provenance that consumers can feel good about. FSS Water Kefir PHA provides efficacious activity while addressing the ethos of contemporary society.

Water kefir contains a variety of beneficial compounds such as gluconic acid. The fermentation process of water kefir produces this organic acid, which maintains an important role in the food industry for the ability to encourage the growth of beneficial gut bacteria. In personal care, gluconic acid offers cellular renewal properties as a more gentle form of chemical exfoliants. Standardized for 18-24% gluconic acid, FSS Water Kefir PHA offers the benefits of a natural, vegan polyhydroxy acid for use in a variety of skin and scalp care applications.

SCIENCE

Hydroxy acids are a common addition to personal care products to provide consumers a mechanism to address problem skin, uneven skin texture and a dull complexion. Hydroxy acids are organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid moiety. Hydroxy acids can be further categorized by chemical structure. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic or lactic acid, contain a hydroxyl group on the first carbon, or the alpha position, from the carboxylic acid. Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, contain a hydroxyl group on the second carbon, or the beta position, from the carboxylic acid. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), such as lactobionic and gluconic acids, contain multiple hydroxyl groups, including alpha and beta positions.

While all of these hydroxy acids serve as exfoliators, the positions of the hydroxyl groups ultimately determine the function. AHAs typically penetrate the skin more readily, while BHAs like salicyclic acid migrate into pores and sebum rich areas due to its lipophilic structure. PHAs present with less irritation for the consumer as the acids work exclusively on the skin’s surface without interacting with deeper portions of the skin. Dead skin cells can clog skin or pores and while the skin naturally undergoes cellular turnover, exfoliation efficiently removes the barrier of dead cells making way for a more effective skin care routine and brighter complexion.

As a PHA, gluconic acid interacts with cells on the skin’s surface to encourage cellular renewal by dissolving the bonds holding dead skin cells together. Imagine the skin is like a brick wall with the corneocytes as the bricks. These top layer bricks are dead, dried out skin cells that are getting ready to shed. The mortar between the bricks or corneocytes is the intercellular matrix that holds the bricks together. PHA materials, such as gluconic acid, influence cellular renewal by dissolving the glue or intercellular matrix that binds the skin cells together. This breakdown accelerates the elimination of dead skin cells, therefore allowing the lower epidermis layers to expedite the tissue renewal process.

BENEFITS

Reveal the beauty lying underneath. As a polyhydroxy acid, FSS Water Kefir PHA enhances natural skin beauty and promotes collagen synthesis for a revitalized aesthetic. PHA incorporation into skin care inspires inclusive personalization for sensitive or reactive skin types. FSS Water Kefir PHA offers standardized gluconic acid to buff away tired skin with a gentle approach. The selective use of water kefir grains encourages vegan, botanical derivatives suitable for addressing concerns of the modern consumer. Ideal for serums, toners, masks, or lotions, FSS Water Kefir PHA allows brands to capture eco-conscious beauty without compromise.

Storage: Store in a dry place at temperatures between 16 and 32°C. Do not freeze.

Shelf life: 12 months, properly stored, in sealed container. 

This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rated.