FSS VegeaSilk

Background:

Silk proteins are often used to improve the softness of dry and damaged hair, making it feel silky, soft and nourished. But this luxurious fabric, synonymous with healthy hair, has fallen from favour due to its controversial animal origin. Using biotechnology, Formulator Sample Shop Europe is working to create vegan and sustainable alternatives to animal derived actives. VegeaSilk is our latest offering in this eco-conscious line. Silk is a highly treasured natural fibre used in textiles, fashion and soft furnishings as well personal care. The history of silk production is closely associated with the emergence of China as one of the great civilizations. According to Chinese legend, sericulture and the weaving of silk was invented by Lady Hsi-Ling-Shih, the wife of the mythical Yellow Emperor. Over the centuries this most valuable of fabrics has been reserved for the dressing of Emperors and nobility before being used for currency and trade.

Today, silk clothing is made for the masses and can be found in every high street store. Although a natural fabric, silk is not considered vegan as it is derived from the domesticated silkworm (Bombyx mori) and the moral stance of mass silk production is often bought into question.

As consumers turn towards ‘clean beauty’ brands, they consider the ethics and sustainability behind the products which they purchase. Trust and transparency are key terms that need to be acknowledged in every area of the personal care supply chain. According to a 2020 Mintel report ‘Lab-Grown’ will be the new ‘Organic’ lead by an increase in consumer understanding of biotechnology and the positive impact this can have in the sourcing of natural and sustainable ingredients.

Capturing a yeast driven biotechnology, Formulator Sample Shop Europe have developed a natural, vegan and ‘Lab-Grown’ replacement to animal derived silk. Traditionally, in personal care silk proteins have been used for improving moisturistion, elasticity, and firmness while also creating a soft feel via tenacious film forming. These attributes also contribute to a sense of luxury synonymous with this queen of fabrics.

Science:

Conventional methods of silk production and processing have many disadvantages combined with environmental pollution. Silk production begins with the cultivation of silk worms from eggs. The silkworms are fed with mulberry leaves, which is said to give a finer quality material resulting in more mulberry silk being produced and consumed worldwide than any other type of silk.

Silk fibres are produced by the silkworm as protection during pupation, while undergoing its metamorphosis from caterpillar to moth. The silk fibres are removed from the cocoon before the moth emerges. They are cleaned, degummed and then used to spin cloth. In most silk production, the pupa is usually killed in the cocoon during this process.

There are also other major environmental concerns in silk production. The use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides for the cultivation of mulberry trees, pollution generated by waste-water released from the degumming process, increased water consumption in the silk fibre production process and land consumption for the plantation of mulberry trees.

As a sustainable alternative, VegeaSilk is produced from the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae cultured under special lab conditions. Saccharomyces cerevisiae, commonly known as baker’s or brewer’s yeast, provides an efficient system for the expression of proteins and can be cultured on a large scale. This method is ideal when looking to imitate the amino acids typically found in silk while reducing chemical, energy and water inputs.

Silk fibres consist of two protein strands; fibroin held together by sericin, a protein gum. Both fibroin and sericin contain the same 18 amino acids and are rich in serine, alanine and glycine, which form beta-pleated sheets. The difference between the two protein compounds is the crystalline structure and high molecular weight of fibroin, causing it to be water-insoluble. Both proteins found in silk are formed mostly of glycine (50%), the smallest amino acid, allowing for tight packing of fibres that are strong and resistant to stretching.

By lysing the yeast cells and through various filtration techniques a secretion of proteins rich in serine, alanine and glycine is isolated and extracted. The subsequent protein suspension, obtained through biotechnology, is hydrolysed to mimic the function of hydrolysed silk proteins. This production process of the VegeaSilk is free from any animal derived components.

Benefits:

VegeaSilk offers a biomimetic and vegan alternative to hydrolysed silk proteins. This allows brands to capture the luxury of silk without compromising on their ethics. A comparative study between VegeaSilk and Hydrolsyed Silk (derived fromBombyx mori) shows that both materials provide a similar hydrating activity on hair. This is demonstrated via a Gravimetric analysis. The VegeaSilk can be used in skin, body and hair care formulations as an effective moisturising agent and film-former. Promote the comfort, elegance and sensuousness of silk without animal cruelty.