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INCI: Aqua & Lactobacillus/Tomato Fruit Ferment Extract
& Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract & Keratin Amino Acids &
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate & Acyl Coenzyme A Desaturase
Use Levels: 1.0% - 10.0%
Solubility: Water Soluble
Appearance: Very Pale Yellow to Yellow, Slightly Hazy to Hazy
Liquid
pH (Direct): 3.5 - 5.5
BACKGROUND Curly hair is unique. In terms
of structure, it contains a higher degree of disulfide bridges than straight or
wavy hair. Research indicates that hair is more susceptible to breakage as the
individual fibers overlap or wrap around the teeth of either a comb or a brush
when styling. Given the nature of curly hair, it is more prone to damage and
breakage. When hair fibers are damaged, the cuticle lifts and the hair becomes
dry, brittle, dull,and difficult to manage. It also tangles easily.
SCIENCE
Our hair consists of three
different layers, the cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the outermost
layer. It is similar to shingles on a roof that overlap each other to both
protect and water proof the hair. The next layer, the cortex contains keratin
filaments wrapped in helical structures similar to telephone cords that are
then intertwined into bundles. The cortex is the layer that gives hair its
strength and elasticity. The individual keratin amino acids that make up the
cortex are held together by three different types of bonds, hydrogen bonds,
salt bonds and disulfide bonds. Hydrogen bonds are weak physical bonds that can
easily be broken with water or heat. These bonds typically re-form once the
hair dries or cools. Salt bonds are also weak and easily break when hair is
treated with slightly alkaline or acidic solutions that alter the pH of the
hair. These bonds also typically re-form once the pH of the hair is normalized.
In addition to hydrating hair, the rice amino acids in FSS Rice Curl Complex PF
help stabilize both the hydrogen and salt bonds to help strengthen the hair and
maintain curl.
The last type of bond is much
stronger than both hydrogen and salt bonds. Cysteine is a key amino acid in
keratin filaments. Each cysteine amino acid contains a sulfhydryl group that
links together with a sulfhydryl group in an adjacent cysteine to form
disulfide bonds and create a molecule referred to as cystine. Disulfide bonds
give hair its shape. In order to permanently straighten or curl the hair, these
bonds need to be chemically broken. The hair is then manipulated (either
straightened or curled) and is then chemically treated again to re-form the
disulfide bonds. The oxidation of sulfhydryl groups in cysteine damages the
hair and weakens the individual fibers. As naturally curly hair becomes
damaged, it loses its curl as the disulfide bonds break and the helical
structure of keratin unfurls. Protecting the integrity of the disulfide bonds
is perhaps the best way to strengthen the hair.
The tomato bioferment that is
added to our FSS Rice Curl Complex PF contains a unique
bi-enzyme complex that converts serine in the tomato to cysteine in situ. This
can help repair oxidized sulfhydryl groups. Restoring the disulfide bonds in
damaged curly hair strengthens it and improve its structure to ultimately
improve curl.
The bi-enzyme complex is also
useful in styling aids for individuals that either curl their hair with a
curling iron or get a perm. Increasing the strength of the hair and repairing
the disulfide bonds cannot only help repair damage caused by curling irons, but
also enhances retention of the newly formed curls. After all the stronger the
disulfide bonds, the more capable the hair is of maintaining its shape. The
tomato bioferment can also help strengthen the newly re-aligned disulfide bonds
that are created when perming. Another benefit of using tomato derived
ingredients is that tomatoes contain lycopene, an antioxidant that can further
protect the hair from oxidative stress.
The last ingredient in
the FSS Rice Curl Complex PF is a blend of keratin amino
acids, which acts as a humectant to further hydrate the hair and help it appear
smooth and polished.
BENEFITS
FSS Rice Curl Complex PF is designed to deliver protection and optimize
the integrity of the hair while enhancing curl retention. It contains a unique
blend of rice amino acids, stearoyl CoA-desaturase (SCD-1), tomato bioferment
and keratin amino acids. All of which work synergistically to improve and
protect the hair. The rice amino acids help condition and hydrate the hair to
enhance its integrity and reduce moisture loss. Rice is a staple grain in many
cultures and is considered to be highly nutritious. Including rice ingredients
in cosmetic applications garners exceptional marketing appeal amongst
consumers. Flexibility is an important characteristic for curly hair. SCD-1 is
an enzyme that converts saturated fatty acids on the hair to unsaturated fatty
acids. This conversion changes the melting point of the fatty acids on the hair
to improve the hair’s flexibility and enhance curl retention. SCD-1 will also
help improve texture.
Storage: Protected from direct light and humidity at a
temperature of 50°-77°F (10°-25°C)
Shelf life: 12 months, properly stored, in sealed
container.
This product should be added
to a formulation at the recommended usage rated.