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Make a Splash! By incorporating marine-inspired materials made from algae extracts into cosmetic and personal care products, formulations can capitalize on the benefits attributed to such ingredients. With an abundant supply of natural materials, all boasting high levels of vitamins, minerals and other skin nourishing properties, the sea and its surrounding environment, prove to be an excellent source of ingredients ideal for skin and hair care applications.
Prior to the high level consumer recognition of prion diseases such as BSE (Mad Cow Disease) high molecular weight proteins such as soluble collagen (~ 300 kD) were building blocks of quality cosmetics. However, the threat of BSE combined with the ever-broadening support for animal rights has all but eliminated incorporation of animal proteins in new cosmetic formulations. Soluble collagen serves as an excellent film former. The relatively high hydroxyproline content of mammalian collagen allows for the formation of H-bonded water bridges tying moisture to the peptide backbone.
A luxurious-feeling film, binding moisture to the skin was the principle reason for collagen’s popularity. The problem remains, how do you duplicate the aesthetics and efficacy of mammalian collagen without encountering the problems now associated with animal products?
Science:
Much like the mammalian extracellular matrix, algae contains a variety of high molecular weight proteins, which contain hydroxyproline-rich regions. Unlike mammalian tissue these marine-derived proteins exist conjugated with carbohydrates, in the form of glycoproteins. Typically the ratio of carbohydrate to protein is 3:1. Due to the presence of sugar groupings with their excess of hydroxyl groups, there is significantly more water bound to the molecules than with mammalian collagen.
By lysing algae cells, and isolating the hydroxyproline-rich glycoproteins through the use of molecular sieves, we produce a product called FSS Phytocoll Marine PF.
Benefits:
FSS Phytocoll Marine PF duplicates the aesthetics of mammalian collagen while delivering enhanced levels ofmoisture to the skin or hair without the associated issues of using and animal base product. This enhanced level of moisture binding ability can be attributed to the presence of the carbohydrates, which are typically absentfrom mammalian collagens. FSS Phyotocoll Marine PF may be formulated as a direct 1:1 replacement for animal derived collagen products. FSS Phyotocoll Marine PF may be used to restore one’s youthful appearance by hydrating the skin and helping to increase its natural collagen production. Since it is easily incorporated into the water phase, this product may be used in a wide variety of personal care formulas.
Efficacy:
As evidenced in a hydration efficacy study of FSS Phytocoll Marine PF on skin, moisture levels were improved and maintained over two weeks when compared to the baseline results. On average, after two weeks, 2.0% FSS Phytocoll Marine PF improved skin hydration by 12% when compared to baseline hydration values and by 8.0% when compared to the test vehicle. These findings support the use of FSS Phytocoll Marine PF in personal care applications designed to enhance hydration levels for both skin and scalp care.
INCI Name: Laminaria Japonica Extract Appearance: Clear to Hazy Viscous Liquid Solubility: Water Soluble Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-10.00% pH: 3.5-5.5 Storage: Protected from direct light and humidity at a temperature of 50°-77°F (10°-25°C) Shelf life: 12 months from the date of manufacture.
This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.
All products sold are cosmetic grade; External Use Only; Cosmetic & Personal Care Formulations Only.